The tarnished reputation of sulphates in shampoos and the suds they sow is fairly well known. Then there’s the chatter about fragrance in haircare formulations, which, for some, can be irritating and to blame for certain skin sensitivities. For me, growing up to sweet-smelling classics like Pantene and Sunsilk, the idea seems alien. But one thing’s for certain: Ingredients matter. Ingredients that are included and especially ingredients excluded in your hair essentials. That said, there many other harmful additives lurking in your shampoo bottle, and phthalates is one such chemical that has been the victim of a particularly nasty campaign of late—but is it warranted? We dive into that question to clear up the pros, cons and potential risks of using mane cleansers infused with phthalates with two experts, Dr Yogesh Gupta and Debabani Mitter.
What exactly are phthalates?
“Phthalates come under the umbrella of chemicals that are used as plasticisers and gelling agents to increase the pliability, sturdiness and durability of a wide range of items, from shower curtains to medical devices. Simply put, you can invariably find phthalates in products that require a gel-like consistency, stability and those that are intended to give a flexible hold. This is why phthalates make an obvious choice for haircare essentials like shampoos and hair sprays,” explains Dr Yogesh Gupta, celebrity skin expert and director, RSB Wellness clinic.
Why are phthalates in your shampoo?
As far as haircare goes, phthalates are added to hair sprays to avoid over-stiffness and promote bounciness that can last all night long. “In shampoos, phthalates are often used as gelling agents. The chemical is used in hair cleansers to give it a pleasing smell or to help balance out the formula of the shampoo. A smell that lingers on for days often gives consumers the satisfaction of a clean scalp during their wash routine. Given that phthalates do not have any proven benefits for the scalp per se, L’Occitane has never used phthalates in any of its haircare ranges,” reveals Debabani Mitter, national trainer, L’Occitane India.
Why you should avoid phthalates?
“There are no proposed advantages of phthalates in shampoos, except to accentuate the fragrance, absorption and delivery of other topical agents that are used on the scalp. Typically, phthalates work in favour of hair products, but against your scalp and overall health as they can have some serious side effects. The chemical is commonly touted as hormone disrupter for both women and men. Current research suggests that too much exposure to phthalates can have a significant effect especially on the female reproductive system. So if you’re trying to conceive, you must opt for phthalates-free shampoos,” shares Dr Gupta.
Although not a primary reason, but hormonal imbalance can also be a common cause for exacerbating hair fall. “Other serious conditions like endocrine dysregulation, early puberty, endometriosis, infertility, altered fetal development, breast and skin cancer, obesity and even type II diabetes have also been associated with phthalates. In fact, studies indicate that hairstylists who are constantly inhaling the chemical are more susceptible to respiratory issues, such as asthma and allergy,”adds Dr Gupta. Heat can further accelerate their release, so phthalates-free shampoos are a must when styling your tresses with heat producing tools.
From Kiehl's Rice and Wheat Volumizing Shampoo made with a beautiful blend of naturally-derived proteins and Alps Goodness Intensive Hydration Shampoo for Curly Hair with good-for-your-tresses shea butter, to Forest Essentials hair cleanser boosted with bhringraj and Juicy Chemistry Baobab Rosemary & Tea Tree Shampoo that helps strengthen the hair follicles, here are our favourite phthalates-free shampoos.
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